(instead of everywhere that writes a response. Or rather, the subset of places
which write responses where we haven't forgotten it).
This also means that we don't have to have the mysterious version_string
attribute in anything with a request handler.
Unfortunately it does mean that we have to pass the version string wherever we
instantiate a SynapseSite, which has been c&ped 150 times, but that is code
that ought to be cleaned up anyway really.